Can You Put a Regular Trampoline In the Ground?

Key Takeaways

• You can technically sink a regular above-ground trampoline into the ground, but manufacturers and safety experts strongly advise against it due to drainage failures, accelerated rust, and structural instability.

• Above-ground trampolines are engineered to sit on legs in open air, while true in-ground trampolines use reinforced frames, vented pads, and built-in drainage systems designed specifically for burial.

• Burying a standard trampoline often costs more than expected €1,500–€4,000 with excavation in 2025) and typically results in worse bounce quality, faster corrosion, and a lifespan cut in half.

• Safer alternatives include purpose-built in-ground trampoline kits or a securely anchored above-ground trampoline with a proper enclosure and thoughtful landscaping.

• DIY “pit plus regular trampoline” projects seen on social media may look fine initially, but most develop significant problems within 1–3 years including frame corrosion, soil collapse, and standing water.

Can You Put a Regular Trampoline in the Ground? (Short Answer)

Yes, it is physically possible to bury a regular backyard trampoline in the ground. But here’s the reality: it’s generally a poor idea, and neither manufacturers nor safety organisations recommend it.

When we talk about a regular trampoline, we’re referring to a typical above ground model—the kind with a metal trampoline frame, a jumping mat attached by springs, and U-shaped or straight legs designed to stand 2–3 feet above your lawn. These units are engineered with open air circulation in mind, not soil contact.

The three biggest problems with putting a normal trampoline underground include:

• Compromised safety – The frame can shift, tilt, or settle unevenly as soil moves, creating an unstable jumping surface where kids can bottom out on compacted dirt.

• Poor drainage and ventilation – Water collects in the pit, leading to mold, mildew, and a consistently damp environment under the mat.

• Accelerated rust and frame failure – Moisture-exposed steel corrodes 3–5x faster underground than in open air, often cutting the trampoline’s lifespan from 7–10 years down to 3–5 years.

Major brands explicitly design separate in-ground trampoline models because the engineering requirements are fundamentally different. If your goals are a lower fall height and a cleaner look in your backyard, a dedicated inground trampoline kit or a well-anchored, low-profile above ground trampoline will serve you far better.

What Is a “Regular” vs an In-Ground Trampoline?

Understanding the difference between these two types of trampolines is crucial before you consider any digging in your yard.

A regular trampoline—sometimes called a standard trampoline or above ground trampoline—is designed with specific assumptions built into its engineering. It has U-shaped or straight metal legs that elevate the frame 2–3 feet off the ground. It relies on free air circulation beneath the mat for proper bounce dynamics and moisture control.

The springs and frame are coated for outdoor use, but not for constant contact with damp soil. Most include a clip-on safety net enclosure that attaches to poles extending above the frame.

A true in ground trampoline is a different beast entirely. It sits in a pre-dug pit with its frame at or just below ground level. The frame is heavier and designed to bear lateral pressure from the surrounding soil pushing against it. It includes vented pads, mesh panels, or airflow channels to allow air movement in and out of the pit during jumping. Most kits ship with specific instructions for retaining wall construction and drainage systems.

The key insight here is that in-ground systems treat the pit, wall, and trampoline as one integrated structure engineered to work together. A regular trampoline assumes flat, open ground beneath it and zero soil contact on the frame or legs.

The rest of this article focuses specifically on why dropping an above ground model into a hole creates problems—not why in-ground trampolines as a category are problematic. When designed correctly, purpose-built ground trampoline systems work beautifully.

6 Big Problems With Burying a Regular Trampoline

These issues don’t always show up on day one. That’s precisely why you’ll find DIY projects on social media that look perfectly fine—they’re often filmed within weeks or months of installation.

The real problems emerge over seasons and years. Frame rust creeps in after a couple of winters. Soil settles and shifts after heavy rains. The pit that drained fine in August becomes a muddy pool by April.

Let’s break down each major issue so you can see what you’d actually be signing up for.

1. Much More Work and Expense Than People Expect

Sinking a 12–14 foot trampoline requires a pit roughly 30–40 inches deep and several feet wider than the frame itself. In 2025, this typically means renting a mini excavator or hiring a professional landscaping crew rather than attempting a purely manual dig.

Homeowners often underestimate projects like this in much the same way they underestimate the installation, handling, or long-term impact of large household items such as white goods.

When the full scope of work is considered, the costs usually break down into the following areas:

• Excavation and soil haul-off
  Digging the pit and removing excess soil often represents the largest single cost, especially if machinery or licensed disposal is required.
  Typical 2025 cost: €450–€1,800

• Basic retaining wall materials
  Timber, concrete rings, or modular retaining systems are commonly used to prevent soil collapse around the pit perimeter.
  Typical 2025 cost: €270–€720

• Gravel drainage layer
  A drainage base is essential to prevent water accumulation beneath the trampoline, which can cause corrosion, odours, and long-term ground instability.
  Typical 2025 cost: €135–€360

• Labour (if professional installers are used)
  Hiring a landscaping or groundworks crew increases upfront cost but significantly reduces installation time and risk.
  Typical 2025 cost: €450–€1,350

That “cheap weekend project” many homeowners imagine often ends up costing as much as—or more than—purchasing a purpose-built in-ground system that’s actually designed for the job.

Hidden tasks compound the problem:

• Disposing of 10–15 cubic yards of displaced dirt (that’s 20–30 tons depending on moisture content)

• Restoring landscaping after heavy equipment churns up your lawn

• Potentially obtaining permits depending on your municipality’s rules for excavation

2. Reduced Safety and Higher Injury Risk

One of the main reasons people want to put a trampoline in the ground is to improve safety by lowering the fall height. Ironically, burying a regular trampoline often creates new safety risks that can outweigh that benefit.

Soil erosion and settling around the trampoline hole can cause the frame to shift, tilt, or drop unevenly over time. What starts as a level surface becomes unpredictable, with one edge sitting lower than the others. Kids jumping near the uneven side can land awkwardly or fall off at unexpected angles.

Then there’s the bottoming-out problem. When jumpers—especially heavier teenagers or adults—hit the mat with force, they need clearance beneath them. If the pit has partially filled with loose dirt, mud, or compacted debris, jumpers can strike the ground beneath the mat. This creates serious safety concerns for spinal compression and impact injuries.

Other safety risks include:

• Springs loosening unevenly as frame contact points sink, creating exposed springs, pinch points, and gaps in safety padding

• Frame damage going unnoticed because buried legs and lower structural elements are nearly impossible to inspect without excavation

• Sudden failures when rust weakens a weld or leg joint that’s been hidden from view

3. Worse Bounce and Extra Stress on Springs

Here’s something that surprises many people: burying a regular trampoline actually makes the bounce worse, not better.

Above ground trampolines rely on free airflow beneath the mat to function properly. When you jump and the mat deflects downward, air escapes easily from underneath. When the mat rebounds upward, fresh air flows back in. This air movement is essential for the responsive, springy feel that makes trampolines fun.

When you bury the frame in a pit without proper ventilation, you trap that air. The result is a “mattress” feel—mushy, dead, and far less responsive. Serious jumpers practicing gymnastics or cheerleading will especially notice the delayed rebound and inconsistent performance.

This trapped-air problem also puts extra stress on your springs and mat. They’re working harder to overcome the air resistance, which accelerates wear and shortens their lifespan.

True inground trampoline systems compensate for this with engineered venting—slots, mesh panels, or vented pads that allow air to move freely in and out of the pit.

4. Rust, Moisture, and a Shorter Lifespan

Pits naturally collect water from rain, irrigation runoff, and even morning dew condensing on cool surfaces. Without dedicated drainage, your trampoline frame sits in consistently damp soil or—worse—standing water.

The legs and welds on a normal trampoline aren’t built for this environment. They have basic outdoor coatings designed to handle occasional rain and sun exposure, not constant contact with damp soil and humid pit air.

Realistic corrosion timelines look like this:

• Above ground with basic care: 7–10 years of usable life before significant rust issues

• Buried with “good” drainage: 3–5 years before visible rust and structural concerns

• Buried with poor drainage: 1–3 years before flaking, pitting, and potential failure points

The dangerous part is that corrosion at welds and leg joints often causes sudden failures rather than gradual, visible bending.

A leg can snap or a weld can crack without warning while someone is jumping—a scenario that’s far less likely with a properly maintained above ground setup where you can actually see the frame.

5. Poor Drainage, Mold, and Maintenance Headaches

Installer reports suggest that 70–80% of long-term inground failures trace back to inadequate drainage. It’s the single biggest reason DIY buried trampolines become problems.

Without a well-designed drainage system, your pit becomes a muddy, mosquito-friendly mini pond after every heavy rain. You’ll find yourself dealing with:

• Standing water that takes days to drain (or doesn’t drain at all in clay soil)

• Mold and mildew growing on the underside of the mat and padding

• Musty odors that make the trampoline unpleasant to use

• Slippery surfaces from algae growth on moist components

The maintenance burden is real. You’re looking at regularly pumping or bailing water after storms, clearing leaves and debris that blow into the pit, and monitoring for soil erosion that reduces clearance over time.

These issues hit especially hard in regions with high rainfall or yards with heavy clay soil where water doesn’t percolate quickly through the ground beneath the pit.

6. Harder to Move, Modify, or Remove Later

Once your regular trampoline sits in a custom-excavated pit with retaining walls built to its exact dimensions, you’ve essentially created a semi-permanent installation tied to that specific frame size and shape.

Want to upgrade from a 12-foot to a 14-foot trampoline when your kids get older? You’re looking at re-digging, enlarging the pit, and rebuilding the retaining wall structure—potentially another €1,000–€2,000 project on top of buying the new trampoline.

Thinking about selling the house in a few years? A well-installed in-ground trampoline can be a selling point, but a DIY pit with a rusting regular trampoline buried in it often looks like a liability that buyers will want removed before closing.

Planning to relocate? Unlike an above ground trampoline you can disassemble in an afternoon, a buried unit requires excavation, fill material to safely restore the hole, and significant landscaping work to return the yard to normal.

For families who might move homes, redo their outdoor space, or have needs that change as kids grow into teenagers, the flexibility of an above ground setup often makes more practical sense.

Why Do People Want to Sink a Trampoline in the First Place?

The appeal is completely understandable. A trampoline flush with your lawn creates cleaner lines in your garden, looks more intentional than a metal frame sticking up, and eliminates that visual obstruction from your patio or outdoor seating area.

For some families, the real goal isn’t the trampoline itself, but creating a safe, tidy outdoor play space — which is why some parents end up comparing outdoor play alternatives like pedal go-karts instead.

Common motivations include:

• Aesthetic reasons – Matching the visual appeal of professionally landscaped backyards seen on Instagram and Pinterest

• Lower fall height – Reducing the drop from 3 feet above ground to essentially ground level

• Easier access – Making it simpler for small kids or older family members to climb on without a ladder

• Wind resistance – Eliminating the risk of a tall frame catching wind and tipping or blowing across the yard

• Integrated design – Creating a cohesive look with nearby pools, patios, or play areas

These goals are completely valid. The issue isn’t wanting a flush, low-profile trampoline—it’s that burying a regular trampoline is usually not the best way to achieve these outcomes.

Professional in-ground systems or cleverly landscaped above-ground trampolines can meet the same objectives more safely. Some families build low decking around an above-ground trampoline so the mat sits visually flush with the deck surface, while the legs remain in open air with full ventilation.

 Others integrate purpose-built in-ground kits as part of larger backyard renovations, treating it as a planned landscape feature from the start.

Safer Alternatives to Burying a Regular Trampoline

If you love the idea of a low-profile trampoline integrated into your garden design, you have better options than forcing a standard trampoline into a role it wasn’t built for.

Both alternatives below typically deliver better results, longer lifespans, and often similar or lower total cost when you factor in multi-year maintenance, part replacement, and the very real possibility of needing to replace a rusted-out buried frame years before you’d need to replace an above-ground one.

Option 1: Purpose-Built In-Ground Trampoline Kits

Dedicated in-ground trampoline kits are designed from the outset to live in a pit. Their engineering accounts for everything a regular trampoline ignores:

• Heavier, reinforced frames capable of withstanding lateral soil pressure

• Corrosion-resistant coatings rated for constant moisture contact

• Vented pads or airflow channels that maintain proper bounce dynamics

• Integrated retaining structures or detailed wall specifications included in installation guides

Reputable brands offer various sizes—10×6 foot rectangular models, 11-foot rounds, 14-foot family sizes—with clear installation manuals aligned with ASTM safety standards.

Total project costs in 2025 typically run €2,000–€5,000, which includes the trampoline itself, excavation, gravel base, drainage materials, and basic retaining wall construction. High-end landscaping integration or complex yard conditions can push costs higher.

The benefits justify the investment:

• Consistent, responsive bounce thanks to proper ventilation engineering

• Better long-term safety from stable, purpose-designed frame construction

• Factory warranties that remain valid (unlike buried regular trampolines)

• Higher resale appeal as a professional-looking yard feature

For complex sites with slopes, high water tables, or challenging soil conditions, working with a local landscaper or installer familiar with in-ground trampoline foundations pays dividends in avoiding future headaches.

Option 2: A Safer, Low-Profile Above-Ground Setup

Not ready to commit to full excavation? A quality above ground trampoline with strategic landscaping can achieve much of the same visual effect without the buried-frame problems.

Start with a solid foundation:

• Choose a trampoline with a full-height safety net enclosure

• Install heavy-duty anchors screwed into the soil or set in concrete to prevent blow-overs during storms

• Ensure the frame sits on level, compacted ground with good natural drainage

Then create the low-profile illusion:

• Build a low deck surrounding the trampoline so the mat appears flush with the deck surface

• Install raised planter beds or gentle bermed landscaping around the frame

• Use decorative rock or mulch borders to visually integrate the unit into your outdoor space

The key is leaving the legs in open air with full airflow under the mat while disguising the height difference with smart landscaping.

Cost benefits are significant—many families achieve this look for €600–€2,000 total, covering the trampoline plus basic landscaping materials. That’s often cheaper than excavation costs alone for a buried setup that will fail early.

Maintenance advantages matter too: easy frame inspection, simple relocation if your yard plan changes, and straightforward replacement when the trampoline eventually wears out after a proper 7–10 year lifespan.

Thinking About DIY Anyway? Minimum Safety Considerations

Let’s be clear: this section isn’t an endorsement of burying a regular trampoline. But if you’ve read everything above and still plan to attempt it, these are the bare minimum considerations to reduce (not eliminate) your risks.

Even with every precaution, the result won’t match a true in-ground system for longevity or safety. Your warranty will almost certainly be void.

And you should expect a shorter lifespan with more maintenance headaches than an above-ground installation.

Before any digging begins:

• Check local building codes for excavation requirements in your area

• Review HOA rules if applicable—many prohibit in-ground modifications
  

• Consider at least a consultation with a professional landscaper or structural engineer, especially if your soil is unstable or your yard has drainage issues

Excavation, Retaining Walls, and Soil Stability

The pit must be wider and deeper than just your trampoline’s leg height. You need clearance under the mat even at maximum deflection—typically 30–40 inches from mat at rest to pit floor for mid-size trampolines.

Dig the hole large enough to allow maneuvering during installation and future maintenance access.

A solid retaining wall is non-negotiable. Options include:

• Pressure-treated timber (4×4 or 4×6 posts with horizontal boards)

• Concrete blocks or modular retaining wall systems

• Metal sheeting secured with stakes

Do not rely solely on raw dirt slopes. Freeze-thaw cycles in winter and heavy rain will gradually wash soil into the open space, reducing clearance and destabilising your frame.

This soil erosion is responsible for many of the tilting and bottoming-out problems buried trampolines develop.

Backfill around any retaining wall should be compacted in layers, not just dumped in. Check the walls each season for bulging, cracks, or slumps that indicate movement behind the wall.

Drainage and Airflow

At minimum, cover the pit floor with 4–6 inches of compacted crushed stone or gravel to promote drainage and discourage standing water.

If your yard has any history of water problems—pooling after rain, high water table, clay soil that stays soggy—add a drain outlet.

This could be a perforated pipe running from the pit’s lowest point to a downhill location, connected to a dry well, or tied into an existing drainage system where local codes allow.

Airflow matters as much as drainage. The trapped air problem that kills bounce performance also creates a humid environment that accelerates rust. Ensure a clear gap between the trampoline edge and any surrounding wall.

Use vented pads if available. If you’ve built a surrounding deck, cut discrete vent slots to allow air movement.

Monitor your installation closely after the first few heavy rains. If water remains in the pit for more than 24–48 hours, your drainage system needs improvement before regular use continues.

Conclusion: Should You Put a Regular Trampoline in the Ground?

In many Irish homes, trampolines are just one of several outdoor toys that need to be safe, durable, and easy to adapt as children grow and interests change.

The trade-offs stack up quickly: substantial excavation cost, ongoing drainage and rust problems, worse bounce quality, shorter equipment lifespan, and far more difficult inspection and maintenance compared to an above-ground setup.

If you want a low-profile look that’s easy on the eyes and safer for kids, your best options are either purchasing a dedicated in-ground trampoline kit designed for the job, or creating a thoughtfully anchored above-ground installation with smart landscaping that achieves the visual appeal without the buried-frame headaches.

Before making any decisions, build a simple cost comparison: regular trampoline plus pit plus walls plus drainage versus purpose-built in-ground kit versus above-ground model plus landscaping.

Run the numbers over a realistic 5–10 year ownership period, including maintenance and potential replacement costs. The answer often becomes clear once you see the full picture.

The fun your kids have on a trampoline shouldn’t come with the stress of watching a frame rust out, worrying about improper installation creating injury risk, or knowing you’ve created an expensive landscaping problem to fix later.

FAQs

Can I just cut the legs off my regular trampoline to make it sit lower in the pit?

Cutting the legs is unsafe and not recommended. Trampoline frames are engineered for specific leg geometry—the legs distribute load and provide structural stability in ways that depend on their original length and attachment points. Shortening them changes how forces travel through the frame, often leading to warping, stress cracks, or weld failures. Any manufacturer warranty will be immediately void, and you’ll have created an unpredictable structure that could fail under normal jumping loads.

How deep should a trampoline pit be to avoid bottoming out?

Depth requirements depend on trampoline size and intended use, but for a typical 12–14 foot family trampoline, you need 30–40 inches of clear space between the mat at rest and the pit floor, plus a gravel drainage layer. Heavier jumpers and more aggressive bouncing require more clearance.

The challenge with burying regular trampolines is that this clearance is extremely hard to maintain as soil settles, walls shift, and debris accumulates—which is one of the primary reasons regular trampolines are poor candidates for burial.

Will a buried trampoline be safer because it’s closer to the ground and I don’t need a net?

Lower fall height is only one aspect of trampoline safety. Risks like awkward lateral exits onto hard ground, exposed springs without proper padding, unstable soil creating an uneven surface, and the inability to inspect for frame damage can actually make a buried regular trampoline more dangerous overall.

Many owners of properly designed in-ground trampolines still install nets or soft edging around the perimeter to prevent lateral falls and keep jumpers contained on the mat. Safety isn’t guaranteed just by being at ground level.

Does burying a trampoline increase my home’s resale value?

It depends entirely on execution. A professionally installed, well-maintained in-ground trampoline can be a genuine selling point for families with kids—it shows the home was designed with quality outdoor living in mind. However, a DIY pit with a rusting regular trampoline buried in it typically looks like a liability.

Buyers may see it as an expensive problem requiring removal, pit filling, and lawn restoration before they can use the space. Local buyer preferences also matter; in some markets, in-ground trampolines are common and desirable, while in others they’re unusual enough to raise questions during inspections.

How long will a regular trampoline last if I bury it but do everything “right”?

Lifespan is highly variable based on climate, soil conditions, and maintenance effort, but realistic expectations should be adjusted downward significantly. Even with good drainage, proper retaining walls, and some level of corrosion protection, most regular trampolines buried in the ground show significant rust and structural wear within 3–5 years.

Compare that to a well-maintained above-ground model in similar conditions, which might last 7–10 years before needing replacement. You’re essentially trading half your trampoline’s useful life for the buried aesthetic—a trade-off worth understanding before you commit.